The following information relates to the desk model depicted above. A free-standing version and a desk version with a longer arm are available. They are likely to share the same internals and configuration, but I can not be certain.
The circuit inside will be exposed to mains voltage. Do not connect your device to the mains when flashing. Flashing this device via a serial connection will involve precarious soldering and cutting through insulating heat-shrink tubing which will have to be replaced.
If you are uncomfortable with this, or are not confident around mains voltage, do not attempt to do this! Using the Tuya-convert method is preferred.
1. Disconnect the device from mains voltage!
2. Open the device. The plastic and aluminum halves can be separated by twisting the plastic part counter-clockwise. If you're okay with a few scuffs you can also use a screwdriver (or a spudger) to separate the two halves.
3. Remove the two screws holding the round plate with the LEDs. It is connected to the main PCB with a little cable. Make note of the orientation of this connection to ensure you reconnect it correctly later.
4. Carefully remove the heat-shrink tubing around the two main PCBs.
5. Like any ESP device, to flash this chip using serial you'll need 3V3, GND, RX, TX and GPIO0
There are pads available for 3V3 and GPIO0 on the back. I have tried to find easier solder points on the front, marked in the image above.
Be aware that the pin labeled VCC does not carry 3V3, but 24V DC. If, for any reason, you wanted to connect any other sensor or component, the exposed pin for GPIO5 can be used, in addition to RX (GPIO3) and TX (GPIO1).
6. Flash the chip as you would with any other, using `ESPHome-Flasher <https://github.com/esphome/esphome-flasher>`__ or any other tool of your choosing. While this is not meant as a tutorial on flashing ESP chips, some general hints:
- Always double-check your connections, and don't change any when the ESP is powered. I fried one of these mood lights this way.
- Ensure GPIO0 is connected to ground to get the device into programming mode, but also don't forget to disconnect this when you expect the device to start in normal mode.
- When working with a breadboard, an FTDI adapter and jumper wires, it is very easy for something to become disconnected. Try to use as few wires as possible.
7. Re-apply some heat-shrink tubing or cover the PCBs in electrical tape. Make sure none of the traces or solder joints are exposed anymore. Re-connect the LEDs (see cable orientation in one of the images above).
8. Screw down the plate with LEDs and close the device.
