mirror of
https://github.com/esphome/esphome-docs.git
synced 2024-11-08 09:52:07 +01:00
171 lines
7.0 KiB
ReStructuredText
171 lines
7.0 KiB
ReStructuredText
DIY Light switch using a Sonoff Basic
|
|
=====================================
|
|
|
|
.. seo::
|
|
:description: An example of how to integrate a light switch into Home Assistant using ESPHome
|
|
:image: sonoff_light_switch.png
|
|
:keywords: Relay, Sonoff Basic, Sonoff Dual Dual R1, Light, HASS, Home Assistant, ESPHome
|
|
|
|
.. note::
|
|
|
|
This is a DIY solution, and you will need to have some knowledge of electrical wiring and enough
|
|
capabilities to do this work safely.
|
|
|
|
The author, and the ESPHome team, take no responsibility for any actions, injuries or outcomes
|
|
from following this guide.
|
|
|
|
In some countries you may need specific qualifications before you can carry out such work in
|
|
a residential property.
|
|
|
|
Background
|
|
----------
|
|
|
|
Moving your entire house to smart lighting can end up being very expense, for instance if you have a
|
|
light fitting with 5 lamps in it that's 5 expensive smart bulbs to buy just for one room! Smart bulbs
|
|
clearly have some great advantages, dimmable, colour temperature or even full colour changing. What
|
|
if all you're after is a cost effective way to turn them on and off?
|
|
|
|
The ideal solution would be to replace the light switch with one that can be controlled by home
|
|
assistant, whilst retaining the ease of use of a standard light that would also continue to work if
|
|
the network went down, or Home Assistant failed etc.
|
|
|
|
It turns out Sonoff do exactly this product, it called a T1-UK (other country options available),
|
|
however you soon found the touch aspect of them might not 'feel right' and certainly might not get the
|
|
approval of other members of your household. However if this solution appeals to you, check out the
|
|
:doc:`Cookbook guide for T1/T2/T3</cookbook/sonoff-t1-3>`
|
|
|
|
The other option to consider is a standard '2 way' light switch (like you might have on an upstairs
|
|
/ downstairs control in your house) but using relays for the second switch. For many this will have
|
|
the disadvantage that if you remotely changed the light status the switch is then 'upside down'.
|
|
|
|
The Solution
|
|
------------
|
|
|
|
Use a 'retractive' style light switch. That is one that is spring loaded and so always returns to the
|
|
'off' position. It's effectively a push button, that looks like a light switch. Combining this with a
|
|
Sonoff Basic gives you the ideal solution for somewhere around £5. That's much cheaper than buying lots
|
|
of expensive smart bulbs, but of course you only get on / off control.
|
|
|
|
You will have several potential hurdles to overcome:
|
|
|
|
1. The first is that you do need to have a neutral at the location of the Sonoff. Many houses will not have
|
|
this as standard at the light switch.
|
|
|
|
2. You need enough space to accommodate your Sonoff Basic at your chosen location.
|
|
|
|
If you're lucky most of the locations will have plasterboard walls, and you will be able to simply drop a neutral
|
|
wire down the inside of the wall to the lights switch (where you locate the Sonoff).
|
|
|
|
Also, if you have plasterboard walls, most of the light switch back boxes are the plastic dry lining style boxes.
|
|
This can come in useful because if you remove the PCB from the plastic case it actually fits in the back box nicely.
|
|
|
|
.. warning::
|
|
|
|
If you plan to take the PCB out of the plastic case you need to make sure it's properly insulated, and that the back
|
|
box is deep enough to hold the PCB as well as the switch. You should also insulate the PCB, for instance by dropping it
|
|
in a heavy duty glue lined heat shrink sleeve.
|
|
|
|
**The PCB has mains electricity flowing through it, if you are in any doubt about your capabilities do not attempt to do
|
|
this.**
|
|
|
|
If you have a light switch in a brick wall, an option might be to place the Sonoff Basic above the light in the ceiling void,
|
|
and use the cable that ran from the light to the switch as a low voltage cable to connect the Sonoff GPIO.
|
|
|
|
.. warning::
|
|
|
|
If you are going to reuse existing wiring to connect to the GPIO, you must make sure it's connected directly to the switch
|
|
and does not have mains voltage on it from another circuit.
|
|
|
|
Implementation
|
|
--------------
|
|
|
|
So having established the pitfalls that you need to overcome lets crack on with making this work.
|
|
|
|
Please make sure you have read up about :doc:`the Sonoff Basic and how to flash it with ESPHome </devices/sonoff_basic>`.
|
|
As that won't be covered here.Also make sure you know your way around a soldering iron and can find the relevant information
|
|
about the location of the GPIO pins on the Sonoff Basic if you need to.
|
|
|
|
If you have a Sonoff Basic V1 devices GPIO14 is already presented on a pin header on the PCB next to the programming pins.
|
|
On the V2 and V3 PCBs, there is a solder pad underneath the PCB that will let you get at this GPIO.
|
|
|
|
You have 2 choices when it comes to picking which GPIO to use. GPIO0 or GPIO14. GPIO0 is used by the push button switch on the
|
|
the PCB so you will need to locate the right pin on the switch and solder a wire onto it if you're going to use that one. Whichever
|
|
one you pick, you will also need to use the ground or 0V pin for the other side of the switch. Once you have soldered your wires
|
|
into place, a handy tip is to add a drop of glue over the wire, a little way away from the solder joint, so give some strain relief
|
|
to the joint.
|
|
|
|
Now you have a pair of wires from the GPIO and 0V to your retractive switch lets look at the code.
|
|
|
|
.. code-block:: yaml
|
|
|
|
esphome:
|
|
name: my_ls
|
|
platform: ESP8266
|
|
board: esp01_1m
|
|
|
|
wifi:
|
|
ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
|
|
password: !secret wifi_password
|
|
|
|
logger:
|
|
|
|
api:
|
|
|
|
ota:
|
|
|
|
binary_sensor:
|
|
- platform: gpio
|
|
pin:
|
|
number: GPIO14
|
|
mode: INPUT_PULLUP
|
|
inverted: True
|
|
id: button_1
|
|
on_press:
|
|
then:
|
|
- light.toggle: light_1
|
|
|
|
- platform: status
|
|
name: "My LS Status"
|
|
|
|
output:
|
|
- platform: gpio
|
|
pin: GPIO12
|
|
id: relay_1
|
|
|
|
light:
|
|
- platform: binary
|
|
name: "My Light"
|
|
id: light_1
|
|
output: relay_1
|
|
|
|
status_led:
|
|
pin:
|
|
number: GPIO13
|
|
inverted: yes
|
|
|
|
In the above code block, there is a *secrets.yaml* file so that you have just one place to change WiFi
|
|
details for all your devices.
|
|
|
|
Although not visible day to day, there is also the status LED configured so that it can be used when setting
|
|
up / debugging. Also a configured binary sensor to give status in case you want to perform an action / alert
|
|
if the light switch disconnects for any reason.
|
|
|
|
.. note::
|
|
|
|
If you wanted to use a pull cord switch (in a bathroom for instance) that works like a standard switch and
|
|
changes state each pull (as opposed to a retractive switch that you press and let go) then you can change
|
|
a single line *on_press:* to *on_state:* which will trigger the light toggle every time the state of the
|
|
switch changes.
|
|
|
|
If you do this it's important that you do not use GPIO0, otherwise if the device reboots and the switch happens
|
|
to be in the closed state the Sonoff will boot into flash mode and not work.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
See Also
|
|
--------
|
|
|
|
- :doc:`/cookbook/sonoff-light-switch`
|
|
- :doc:`/guides/automations`
|
|
- :doc:`/devices/sonoff_basic`
|